By: Blade Rez

Well I decided to make this guide after getting the O.K from a mod, so here we go.

1. Identifying the Problem-

First of all you will notice you have a problem when your playing Guild Wars and you crash, and reboot. Before you jump to the conclusion it’s due to overheating, please take a moment to confirm that. *Note* I will cover artifacting later in this guide

Cause #1 Possibility-RAM
If you run into a problem with your RAM, then on your restart you should see a BSOD (Blue Screen of Death). If this comes up as a problem, then you should take the time, and visit www.memtest86.com to download memtest86. Run the program overnight while you sleep, as the more passes done, the more accurate the information will be. Memtest86 basically runs different types of information through your RAM that may create errors on your RAM. After a successful 6 hour test, check up on the findings. If you see 0 errors then you should be fine. 1-5 you should probably look into, as it may just be a glitch with the RAM. This happened after someone ran it for 89 hours straight. If this is your problem, then you are going to want to post a thread, because each RAM/Motherboard is unique, and there is no set way to solve your problem. I don’t want to be the person responsible for frying your RAM.

Cause #2 Possibility- Under Powered System
This problem comes up with inadequate power supplied to your system. First, if you run into this problem you will most likely not come up with a BSOD on your restart. There are some things you can do to make sure that this is your problem. First, many boards have a PC Health Status section that will monitor the PSU Rails. This is accessible in the BIOS (Setup). Once you get there you will probably say, “What is this crap?!!”
How you interpret the numbers will be to first only look at the ATX +12v, ATX +5v, ATX+3.3v. Ignore vCore and -12,-5,-3.3, and all others. ***NOTE*** Labels may be different as there will be different versions of BIOSes. Also, please note if your motherboard does not support this, continue to read on.***Done***
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6...eadings4pk.jpg
Here is an example of the readings. The readings you need to look at are in the Red Box. So let’s take those for our example

3.3v Rail-3.32v
5v Rail-5.05v
12v Rail-11.91v

So you are still probably saying, “………” That is expected. If you have ever bought a PSU, you will notice a +-5% on Rail Fluctuation. This means that a safe zone for rail readings would be +-5% of the number. So 12v Rail=11.4v-12.6v, should theoretically be fine. Personally, I do not feel readings of below 12v at idle or startup is a good reading. To be safe a reading of around 12.13-12.22 is good. However, 11.91v will work, and below. I just personally prefer to give the O.K on readings above 12. Now does this mean readings above 12 are always good? No, actually readings closer to 12v are better. Some power supplies may idle at 12.01v, and load at 12.00v, which is extremely good, for the extremely small Rail Voltage Fluctuation. If you have this problem, I would suggest you post up your computer specs, PLUS, your power supply AND the AMPERAGE.

On your PSU there should be a sticker. Again only look at the +12v +5v +3.3v. There should be a # then A. Here’s an example

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1211/pic2.jpg

WAIT!! How do I measure when under load?(In Game)

For this you need a multimeter. Preferably a digital one
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1527/12v1hd.jpg
BE CAREFUL WHILE DOING THIS, AS YOU ARE WORKING WITH YOUR COMPUTER ON. Run the game or if you want test programs such as 3dmark06/05.

So How Do We Measure?
You can measure any of the rails, but since the 12v rail is responsible for the GFX card, I will cover the 12v rail.
http://img48.exs.cx/img48/1558/12vtesting.jpg

Now, we’ve gotten rid of the 2 problems that are similar to overheating, so let’s continue to overheating.

Cause #3 *Overheating*

First, you need to understand that any part of your computer may overheat. It could be your PSU, CPU, GPU (VideoCard), Hard Drive, or even your RAM, that will cause a reset. Testing for temperatures is a bit harder, as you may need a probe or if your BIOS doesn’t block, you can get a virtual probe. Virtual Probe Programs include, Speedfan(Recommended by Maximum PC Magazine), Motherboard Monitor 5(User Favorite), ITE Smart Guardian(My favorite, just for simplicity and since it came with my Mobo lol…), and there are many others. It is your choice on which you decide to use. Just keep in mind, that many times if your graphics card doesn’t have a built in Probe you will be unable to come up with a definite temperature measure. Almost ALL motherboards have a CPU temperature monitor in BIOS. Your RAM temperature will come from feel, and your hard drive too.

The “Quick” Fix- The quick fix to just cooling down your components, is removing the side panel, and sticking a regular fan next to it to call down all your parts. This is the quick and easy way. Many people do it, and it works, however, for those who do not prefer this continue. Also, this may serve as a temporary fix.

Parts in Cooling-
Heatsink-A piece of metal that touches the chip and transfers heat so a fan may disperse it. A heat sink may not always carry a fan with it, many cheaper video cards do not even incorporate a fan.

Fan-A piece of plastic that rotates to disperse heat transferred by the heatsink.

Thermal Compound- Often referred to as Arctic Silver 5(A very popular brand of thermal compound.) Provides even more heat transfer, and is a grease. Thermal Compound actually sometimes plays a big part, as for 7$, you may cut 7-10 degrees Celsius.

Fixes-
CPU- If you have figured out that your CPU is overheating, then first you should check out your temperatures. If your temperatures are hitting 60-70 degrees Celsius, then you should definetly look into this. First, check the fan RPMs (Rotations Per Minute) to determine if it may be a fan or heatsink or thermal compound problem. This is a difficult question to answer, as many top fans on the market can efficiently cool at 2200RPMs, while Intel’s Stock HSF at 2200 RPMs will drive your temps up. Post a thread for this.
Now if you have confirmed that you need to replace your HSF, then you should look into a cooler. Again information like this would be answered in a thread for compatibility reasons. Follow the instructions on how to install your HSF, AND the instructions if you are applying thermal compound. ALWAYS APPLY THERMAL COMPOUND WHEN INSTALLING A NEW HSF. Along with that, NEVER RUN YOUR COMPUTER WITHOUT A HSF ATTATCHED TO THE CORE. In seconds you will PERMANENTLY damage your processor.

GPU- Now nVidia usually incorporates a temp read out in their driver application, from their geforce5xxx's I think. ATI does every at their x1--- and x8--- in their read outs. Although video card companies claim their cards can do 140 Degrees Celsius, the threshold should be around 70 Degrees. A GPU is a lot harder to fix, but this is the problem that many people experience. First, lets cover the problems. If your card does not have a temp read out, I would consider just dealing with it for now, and upgrading soon

Artifacting- What is this?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64.../artifact1.jpg
This is a HEAVY example of artifacting. There are very subtle things to as just a few off colored pixels coming up, or an oddly discolored part in your game. Artifacting is pretty much directly related to heat.

Let’s Fix
Fixing heat problems on a GPU is tricky as there are two parts, the GPU and the memory chips around it. First, try removing the side of your case and direct a fan at the GPU. See if this helps, if it doesn’t then restarts are most likely not coming from your video card. If it does, then take out your video card. There are many steps you can take. For graphics cards I would recommend this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118117
There are others, that come from Vantec and such, but Zalman does well in quality, sound, and cooling. Follow installation instructions at Zalmans webpage. They have Flash Video Installation Processes. Remember if you take off the stock HSF off your video card, then you will void your warranty. Also, remember to place RAM heatsinks on your video card. This is not a MUST, but if you are overclocking then you will definetly want to do this for a better OC.

Wait! I don’t want to void my Warranty!!!!
No Prob. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...TTR12=&ATTR13=
Look here for some PCI Slot coolers. Place them under or over your video card and let it vent/blow hot/cold air. This does not work as well, but it does the job. I personally recommend the Powercolor Heatbuster.

There is also this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835888112
This is more for eye candy, than cooling. The noise at 4000 RPMs is also annoying.

Hold It! I have lots of money to spend!
Watercooling is becoming more and more popular. I personally do not like the image of water running in my system, however artificial liquid coolants that are non conductive work too, but these cost even more $. To set up water cooling, you can either build your own kit, or buy a kit. Some may come with a GPU water block, but really following the instruction manual on this one is a smart idea.
One piece of advice I can advise is run the kit EXTERNALLY on many pieces of paper towels for 12-24 hours to check for leaks. Then remove the kit, and check for wet spots on the towels, and if none, then your ready to put it in your computer.

What are the benefits of each?

• GPU HSF-Most Stable, provides good cooling, and the most feasible solution. Also, may add a nice touch to your computer
  • Problems-Compatibility, and Size in some cases, difficulty too.

• PCI Slot-Extremely Easy, may add some nice LEDs
  • Problems-sometimes very LOUD, not extremely beneficial

• Water Cooling- Best cooling, looks awesome, and low noise.
  • Problems-Water…. Water…. Water…. Hard Setup(Kind Of)